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Termez
The 30th meeting of the General Conference of UNESCO held in Paris in November 1999 had adopted e resolution about celebration of 2500 years anniversary of one of the oldest cities in Central Asia - Termez, in 2001 in an international sphere. In touch with the above mentioned resolution the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of Uzbekistan made a special decision on the "Preparations and holding 2500 years jubilee of the city Termez in 2001". Termez which is celebrated its 2500 years anniversary in April 2, 2002, had survived great events and changes in its history. Termez played in an important role during the whole state system of uzbek people and in the development of culture in Central Asia Termez as well as considered one of the cities in Central Asia, which made great contributions in the development of civilization throughout the world and "Silk Road", which is the cross-roads of world civilization. 
The religion of Buddhism and the architectural traditions were spread over the world only through the Termez. From the point of its strategic climatic and geographically convenient conditions of Termez, from the ancient times Termez attracted the attention of many states and state rulers and for what Termez had been repeatedly assaulted by Mongolian, Arabic, Iranian and Greek conquerors.
Mavoraunnahr suffered from oppressions and violence of local leaders and endured cruelties and home bloodshed. Termez burned changed into ash in the fights of conquerors, died and again restored to life, stand on feet returning its former fame and glory.
But Termez not always revived on its historical place. If Old Termez of Kushan period developed on the Amudarya banks, but after Chingizkhans oppression it began to develop and flourish on the eastern banks of the Surkhandarya river. In the second half of the XVIII century Termez had been ruined by the several war and fights, and in the second half of the XIX century it was again founded and developed on the southern part of the village "Pattakesar". The monuments of Old Termez with their unique beauty always drew the attention of the historians, travelers of Early Middle Ages of China, and authors of ancient times.
A valuable written information about Termez is given in the manuscripts of a Chinese traveler of the VII century, monarch of Buddism Suan Tsian, in Greek, Armenian, Chinese, Persian and Arabic sousces; in the old poem "Shakhname" in the works of a great scientist Avicenna, Abu Reikhan Beruni, an Arabic traveler Ibn Batut, a Spanish ambassador Rue Gonsales de Klavijo, Hungarian orientalist Herman Vamberi and great thinkers of the Middle Ages as Alisher Navoi, Abdurahman Jami, Muhammad Babur, Hafizi Abru, Anvary, Hafizi Tanish Bukhari, Davlatshah Samarkandi. An interest to study the history of Termez began in the second half of the XIX century and archaeologists V. V. Bartold, D. N. Logofet, N. A. Maev, V. V. Krestovsky, I. V. Mushketov, A. A. Semenov, M. E. Masson, V. A. Shishkin, T. V. Grek, B. N. Kostalsky, B. B. Piotrovsky, V. A. Vyatkin, D. D. Bukinich, B. N. Zasipkin, L. A. Albaum, G. A. Pugachenkova, E. V. Rtveladze, Ya. Gulyamov, A. A. Askarov and others studied and enriched the history of the city with their scientific views. In the study of Old Termez a great role played expeditions made by Moskow museum of the Peoples Culture of East led by Prof. Denike in 1926-1927 and Termez archaeological expedition of 1936-1939 under the leadership of M. E. Masson; archaeological expedition of the State Hermitage and the Museum of the Peoples of East led by B. Ya. Stavisky in 1961, and the expedition led by Prof. G. A. Pugachenkova since 1959 of the Institute of Oriental Studies of the Republic of Uzbekistan, the expedition of the Archaeological Institute of Uzbekistan led by A. A. Askarov, L. I. Albaum since 1948, the expedition of the Institute Archaeology led by V. M. Masson, the complex expedition since 1980 led by academician A. A. Askarov since 1993 Japanese Academy "Great Silk Road" led by Kyudzo Kato and the National center of French Scientific Research Institute of Archaeology, Institute of Archaeology of the Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Uzbekistan together with the Institute, the leader of which is P. Lerish, together with the Institute of Archaeology of the Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Uzbekistan, led by Prof. T. Shirinov were of great importance. As a result of these expeditions there were gathered a lot of archaeological facts which lightened up the economic and spiritual culture of Termez. The scientists of Termez State University took part in these expeditions as well. According to existing legends the first king of Bactria Zoroastr founded Termez. In the VI century B.C. Iranian Akhamenides who conquered Termez described it as an old city. Until Alexander Macedonian conquerance it belonged to the Akhamenides.
The first names of Termez, which entered the history, were Taramastkha-Taramata (bank of the river - meant in Bactrian). In 327 B.C. Alexander conquered Termez and called after his name - Alexandria.
After the end Alexander the Great's domination the founder of Greek-Bactria, Demetry renamed the city after his name Demetriys. In the 1st century B.C. in touch with the defeat of Greek-Bactria by Kushan's Empire, Termez according to the evidence of written sources, was called Ta-li-mi. But in Chinese reminiscences was called Tu-mi (Tami).
During the period of Kushan Empire Termez greatly developed, At this period Termez had become one of the biggest cities to connect India with the countries of west-north, east in commercial and trade relations. There were built a lot of Buddhist temples and Moslem mosques, holy things.
Since VII century Termez was ruled by the dynasty of Termezshahs. In 705 Termez was captured by conquerors. During IX-XII century Termez as a feudal town changed into an administrative industrial scientific - spiritual and commercial center. During that time the land of defensive area was 10 kilometers and there were 9 gates Many writers, engineers, secular scientists, erudite became famous the world over.
In XI-XII centuries Termez had benn under the power of Gaznevids, Saljukids and Karakhanids and in 1206 Termez was at the disposal of the state of Mohammed Khorezmshah. In 1220, troops of Chingizkhan destroyed Termez. Since the second half of the XIII century Termez again restored and developed not on a new place to the eastern part of the mausoleum Sultan Saodat.
Since the time when Termez was the part of the Temurids state began to develop and was called the "City-Gul Gula"("noisy town"). Termez continued developing even after it was become a mrmber of Shaybanids State. There had been held restorations of the Old Termez fortress.
There where built mosques, minarets, developed spiritual life and science. The internecine dissension wars, which happened in second half of the XVIII century, struggles for the throne and power completely Termez into ruins. Minarets, mosques, fortresses fell down. Only Salavat and Pattakesar villages were preserved.
In the second half of the XVIII century in the south part of the Surkhan river there appeared Pattakesar village. After a hundred year thank to widening the kishlak Pattakesar (village Pattakesar) there was built a present day Termez since, the rise of new Termez coincided with the events, the aggravated relations between Russia and England. Russia with the goal of heightening its influence to these locations began military campaigns to Middle Asia. If the agreement from September 28, 1873 turned Bukhara to dependent country to Russia, but the additional agreement from June 23, 1888 decided the problem of Russian to come to Termez and built defenses.
The Bukhara Emirate gave Termez to the hands of Russian government on January 15, 1893. A large quantity of military parts were bought to Termez in order to defend the interests of Russia. There was built a powerful defense and earthdom fortress. The installation of electrical equipment, laying the railways, telegraphs, communicative lines and others were developed and turned the city into an important military-strategic center along the banks Amudarya river. After so-called state coup ditat in 1917 iand during the Soviet Empire Termez didn't lose its military strategic importance. Within this period there were built large defense constructions and administrative buildings. Education, science, enlightenment culture and art grew and developed.
During the years of Independence Termez became more beautiful, the streets and roads of the city were widened, become flat and smooth. The tremendous and splendid buildings, well-built modern market, park of culture and rest, theaters, cinemas, centers of enlightenment and education have appeared recently. In short, while the preparations to celebrate the 2500 years anniversary of Termez, the city has changed and completely lost its former appearance, which provokes happiness and pride in the hearts of an each termezian.
Sultan Saodat Ensemble
This is a drab group of small mausoleum enclosed by a high wall. The biggest two (dating from the 11th and 12th centuries) are joined by a vaulted gateway. The other mausoleum dated from the Timurids period.
Kyrk Kyz
Kyrk Kyz (40 maidens) was the country seat of a 10th century Samanid noble who feuded with a neighboring landowner and was slain along with all his soldiers.
Fayyaz-Tepa is a 2nd century Buddhist monastery. Before the Arabs, Buddhism was the regions prevailing faith. The remains here take the form of one to two meters high mud walls very clearly defining a central courtyard and surrounding rooms. 
Mausoleum of Hakim at-Termezi
Beyond the ruins of original Arab town of Termez, is memorial ensemble built around the grave of Hakim at-Termezi. Born in 748, at-Termezi successfully mixed mysticism with science and was revered as one of the great Islamic philosopher-mathematicians. He was also a Sufi sheik who reputedly healed people by reading passages from the Qoran. His mausoleum was constructed in 1091.
Zurmala Stupa
A baked-mud stump in the middle of a baked-mud field, the Zurmala tower is in fact a massive Buddhist stupa of 2nd century BC. Locating 4 km out of Termez.
BUDDHIST MONUMENTS OF ANCIENT TERMEZ
Ancient Termez played a dominant role in spreading of one of the world religions Buddhism and Buddhist art in the territory of Central Asia. Specialists say, that the meaning of the word budda is highlighted in Sanskrit.
Buddihsm penetrated from Gandhara (now in the territory of Pakistan), Khindikush mountains and
northern Afghanistan into Termez, and with it came Buddhist art. There exist a number of versions of emerging Buddhism in Central Asia. A famous academician B. A. Litvinsky consider, that some appearance of Buddhism in Central Asia falls into 3rd - 2nd cc. B.C. In the opinion of G. A. Koshelenko, in Margina (recent southern Turkmenistan) in 2-1st cc. B.C. B. Y. Staviskiy says, that Buddhist religion presents in Central Asia from the 1st c. B.C.
According to the last discoveries, the emergence of Buddism in the lands north from Oxus (Amudarya) falls to the 1st c. A.D. Because, in Tarmita (Termez), the main center of Buddism in Central Asia, buildings connected with this religion were erected in the beginning of our millennium.
Buddhist monuments of Ancient Termez are the important part the town and functioned as religious centers. These monasteries served not only for inhabitants of the towns but also for the people lived in the villages around Termez. Monuments as Fayztepa, Karta-tepa, and Zurmala are Buddhist monuments of Ancient Termez. Fayaztepa Buddhist monastery, located out of the territory of modern Termez, located 1 km north-west from Kara-tepa. They are both situated at the countryside of Termez. In 1968-1976 Fayaztepa was investigated by a joint expedition organized by Archaeological Institute of Academy of Sciences of Uzbekistan and Surkhandarya regional Lore Museum. The monastery, with 34 meters in width and 113 meters in length consists of 3 parts: central part monastery; canteen; store house.
The yard was situated at the center, and alongside four sides were built aiwans (verandahs) designed with wall paintings. And the rooms with doors build in front of aiwans, at two sides of sanctuary. Here, attracts an attention square in shape praying place with beautiful ornaments. Hundreds years ago this room was designed with monumental wall paintings and sculptures.
Archaeologists found here a number of sculptures of bodhisattvas and Buddha. Especially, a group of statuettes made on white stone is very interesting. On the surface of this stone was carved a shape like a window-sill, you can see an image of Buddha, sitting in squat under botkhi tree. By two sides of him stood two monks. Arcghaeologists found the holy place in the north west part of the monument. For getting to the holy place you could pass from the monastery part. The main part of the holy place consists of a yard with verandah. This verandah was used by priests as a lecturing place during their teachings.
Aside monastery existed a number of rooms, used as kitchen and storehouse. The found from the remains of this part of monastery many dishes with carved decorations, including designed with symbolic images of Buddha. You can see on them the leaves of a holy tree bodhi or the shapes reminding the footsteps of Buddha.
Some meters north west from the main buildings of Fayaztepa is situated one of the holy monuments stupa. Stupa means in Sanskrit embodiment of universe. Actually, stupas were erected on a pedestal and they have a cylindrical for with a dome upper part. Such construction existed in
Fayaztepa and Karatepa.
Also, stupas were built as a single buildings outside Termez. One of these known today stupas is Zurmala, situated in the eastern part of Termez. Zurmala tower is the most ancient relic of monumental architecture in Central Asia. It was built in the end of the 1st century B.C. Its raw monolith was once faced with red brick, white marble tiles with Buddhist sculptures and cornices of a special type. Dome was decorated colorfully.
Among the findings of Fayaztepa there are inscriptions, made on the surface of dishes. These writings are made in the following alphabets:
- sanskrit;
- bactria;
- kushan;
- kharoshthi;
- brahma
- unknown alphabet.
The biggest monastery of Buddhist period Termez is Karatepa. The first information about Karatepa has become known in 1926. The first expedition on Karatepa was organized and conducted by professor M. E. Masson in 1936-37. On Karatepa monastery conducted research during many years a joint expedition of Hermitage Museum (St.Petersburg), Museum of the Art of Eastern Peoples (Moskow), institutions of East study and Reconstruction, under the leadership of B. Ya. Stavisky.
 The formation of monastery at place of Karatepa 2nd century AD. Kushan kingdom was ruled by the most famous king Kushan Kanishka I. He declared Buddhism as the state religion.
In the result, there appeared many Buddhist monastery complexes in the territory of Kushan kingdom, including Bactria, northern India, eastern Turkistan (now Shinjan-Uygur autonomy region).
Karatepa is one of the sanctuaries, erected during the years of reigning of Kanishka. The total area of Karatepa is almost 3 hectares, built on a hill. Buildings located on earth, also there are underground premises. At the center of some yards there were built small stupas.
Sanctuary and its verandahs were decorated with colorful paintings, as well as images of Buddha and bodhisattvas. The walls of sanctuary were designed with the figures of men carrying presents, also with the local and Buddhist legends.
Meantime, Buddhist statues made of stone, lime and clay, capitels with the head of an animal, many small artifacts as terracotta and ceramic wares were found and studied by scientists. The most important facts in Karatepa are ancient inscriptions. They are divided into two groups. First group of writings include letters in black ink made on the surface of dishes. They belong to the period of Karatepa was used as Buddhist monastery.
The second group of writings graffities, left by visitors, when Karatepa was deserted. The main part of the first group of inscriptions are the letters made in ancient Indian alphabets kharoshthi and brahma. They are in religious content: quotations from Buddhist relics, about presents for monastery and the persons who made these presents. A part of writings are in Greek alphabet. Writings-graffities are in middle Persian and Arabian alphabets.
For reading and studying found in Karatepa inscriptions contributed by linguists V. A. Livshis, V.V. Vertrogradova, Ya. Kharmatta, Kh. Khumbakh and B. Mukerji. Karatepa functioned as Fayaztepa, till the end of the 4th century and in the beginning of the 5th century in the result of invasion Sassanid troops, was destroyed and come to ruins.
In the monasteries monks not only promoted Buddhism but also translated the relics of Buddhism into the local language. In the ancient resources, including Tibetan writings was referred to the famous promoter of Buddhism from Termez Dharmamitra. He participated in the meeting, in
Peshavar, organized by Kanishka I. So, Buddhism played a dominant role in Termez, until the invasion of Arabian.
Chinese traveler Suan Syan, who was in Central Asia IN 629-630 described Termez in his works: There are 10 monasteries with 1000 monks in Ta-Mi. This means that at the threshold of Arabic period in Termez Buddhism saved its past importance.
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