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Tashkent - The Stone Fortress
Tashkent, Uzbekistans capital, shows  its shimmering roots as a Silk Road city even today. The 2,000 year-old-city is a major exporter to Eastern Europe of silk, cotton and textiles, as well as oil, coal, copper, sulfur, rice and manufactured products such as television sets, automobiles and tractors.
Yet, this city, whose name means Stone Fortress -- a title adopted in the 11th century, though Tashkents roots date back to the dawn of the first millennia A.D. -- has the look of a modern metropolis. Little remains of the old city, thanks to a leveling April, 1966, earthquake and the subsequent Soviet rebuilding.
Tashkent became a Muslim city in the 8th century AD, and was an important commercial center during the Middle Ages. Wars and natural calamities have swept most of the buildings dating back to the time of the ancient city. Among the survivors are: The Kukeldash Madrassah (XVII c.), the Sheikhantaur Ensamble (XV c.) and the Khazrati- Imam Complex (XVI c.). The city encountered many invadors: in 1220 the city became part ofthe empire of Genghis Khan and later in 1865 part of the Russian empire.
The Russian influence pre-dates this century; in 1865, the Tsars forces took the city, establishing Tashkent as the capital of Imperial Russias Turkistan satrapy, and, with the arrival of the Trans-Caspian Railway in 1889, the link with Russia was forged. During the Russian Revolution, the area saw widespread violence as White Russians and local nationalists unsuccessfully battled the Red wave.
Despite its modern appearance, Tashkent kept its original beauty and culture: this city of 2.3 million is surprisingly green, thanks to its beautifully laid-out parks and its glistening fountains. There are many beautiful theatres in Tashkent, where the citizens and the capitals guests can enjoy the great many various performances. The famous Navoi Theatre performs the of opera and ballet acts of the world-famous composers and producers.
The city is also known by a quantity of its educational institutions, universities and academy of sciences, and a wealth of museums, including the Museum of Art, Museum of Applied Arts, Amir Temur Museum and the Museum of History of the Peoples of Uzbekistan.
For researchers, the city offers resources galore, including the Alisher Navoi State Library, dating back to 1870, the Republic of Uzbekistan State Archives and the Uzbekistan Academy of Sciences Library.
Source: http://www.tashkent.org/uzland/tashkent.html
Medresse Abulkassim
Medresse Abulkassim is considered to be one of biggest architectural monuments of Beshyogoch daha resulting from many years of experience, successes and traditions of Middle Age architecture, it was built in harmony with Muyi Muborak khon by Abulqosim eshon. Despite its newness, Abulkassim is one of the most imposing historical buildings of the city. Situated in the southern part of Tashkent not far from the former Beshyogoch gates, it is reminiscent of Tashkents ancient architecture. The Abulkassim medresse is a monument to Abulkassim-khan who was regarded as a great intellectual of his time. He is described in the ethnological material of 1908 by N.Ostroumov as "among the most honorable residents of Tashkent...who enjoyed wide popularity not only in Tashkent but also in suburbs". He paid about thirty thousand roubles for the construction of the medresse, and every year he paid for the education of 150 pupils. He died in 1892 during a cholera outbreak.
Hanakoyi Muyi Muborak is part of the architectural complex. It was founded in 1820 during the life of Abulkassim's father. In 1855, in accordance with ancient traditions of medieval architecture, Honaqoyi Muyi Muborak was attached to the building of the medresse. The main facade was reconstructed from
its original one-story into a two-story building. Some years later, a two-domed bathhouse was attached to the southeastern part and a wooden mosque was added to the north. The main facade overlooked a small square with a fountain, small cemetery was located at the southern part of the medresse. Thus a typical medieval architectural complex was formed. In the court yard of medresse there was water pool with domes on it, which was called "sardoba sard -cold, ob-water"(Persian). The bathhouse and sardoba were functioning until 1940s when they were destroyed. The foundations of both buildings were uncovered during archeological excavations, and it was restored then.
The medresse had different names: Karavan Ishan, Madinah Kazi, Abulkassim Shaikh, Abulkassim Ishan, later it was called Yangi Mahalla, after the name of street where it was situated. According to old documents, medresse was damaged during the earthquakes in 1897, 1907, 1966 and suffered great damage due to Chatkal earthquake in 1946. The portal of the main entrance, the second story and towers decorated with street lamps, were almost completely destroyed. The front facade of the medresse was damaged further as it was used for different purposes. This medresse was of great importance for town planning and for distinguishing the historical and architectural background of Tashkent. It is of a rectangular shape (55x46), with an inner yard (22x28). Built of burned bricks, it was intended to dominate the neighboring buildings. That was why the main eastern facade was made of two floors and the decoration of its portal was most important. It was decorated with niches of different depths.
The Darskhana and mosque are situated on the left and the right sides of the main entrance. They are of rectangular shape and are covered with domes.
In the past, the medresse was considered to be one of the best educational institutions of the city. It also admitted children of other nations: Kazaks, Kyrgyzs, Tatars and others. They studied Islam, shariat, as well as literature mathematics, Arabic and Persian grammar, geometry, astronomy and ethics.
Two to five pupils lived together in each of the one hundred hudjras (room). Each room had an entrance hall, a washing room, a fireplace for heating, a hearth for cooking and a shelf for storage. The teachers and personnel lived in separate rooms. Education of about two hundred pupils was conducted in three stages: primary, middle and higher. Lessons were provided in Uzbek, Arabic and Persian.
The medresse is not only a unique architectural monument, but it also has a cultural and historical importance. A famous Uzbek writer, Abdulla Qodiri studied Arabic and Persian here.
Zangi Ota
It bordered with mahallas of Suzuk ota, Chaqar, Chuqur kuprik, Zakhariq. The temple of Khuja Nuriddin, the XVI century architectural monument is preserved in this mahalla. The ancient mahalla has been given this name many centuries ago. Zangi ota's birth date is unknown, he died in 1258. He is the Central Asian honored man or the teacher of shepherds. As for some sources he was born and lived in Tashkent. He is the spiritual teacher of Ahmad Yassaviy. He was from the generation of Arslonbob Eshon. As he was black skinned man, people called him "Zangi-black in uzbek". He was an agitator of tasavvuf tariqat (Islamic sect). His tomb is situated in Zangiota village. After his death the village was given his name. The tombs of Zangiota and his wife Anbar-bibi became the big shrines.
Kukeldash medresse
The word Kukeldash meant brotherhood and it was the name of the position too. A person, who had this position had to be busy with intelligence service in the Khan's reign and they were closely associated with the Khans. One of the ancient monuments, created by the hands of folk masters with long centuries history, situated in Navoiy street is Kukeldash medresse. Medresse was built in XVI century during the rule of Darveshkhon and the aide of the Bukhara emir, Qulbobo Kukeldash was the head of construction process of this medresse and his name was given to this medresse (Tashkent was included to Bukhara khanete in 1532). It was not a large medresse and consisted of rooms built around the court yard. According to its decor and colorful ornaments it was as beautiful as the medresses of Samarqand and Bukhara. But as the centuries passed after the heavy earthquakes the outer facade of the building was changed.
At the beginnings of XVIII centuries after the mutual feudal wars medresse turned out in a very miserable condition. At this time it was used as caravanserai. In 1830-31 years the second floor of Kukeldash medresse was also damaged. Its new bricks were used for the newly built Beklarbegi medresse. Some bricks from the second floor of the medresse were used for repairing of some parts of medresse. Masters, who participated in the restoration of the medresse wrote on the tiles put on top of the gates the following inscriptions: "This fine building was restored in 1246 hidjry year by master Avaz Muhammad, the son of Azim Vali", "This building was built by the general colonel of the palace Shodmonbek the son of Jahongirbek... the wood carving works were done by master Olimjon".
The monument was damaged badly in the earthquake of 1868. The main portal fell down during this quake. In 1902/03 the upper parts of the building were restored from the money collected from the inhabitants of the city but the main portal and the portal itself were not restored. The two sides up to the base of the dome and the round shaped part of the wall were built with new bricks. On the façade of the portal beautiful semi-circle decorations appeared.
After the heavy Chatkal earthquake of 1946 the building badly damaged, the main portal fell down. In the beginning of 1950 the works for renovation of the monument were conducted. The full restoration works of medresse were completed during the years of independence.
THE HOLY SHRINE OF HAZRATI IMAM
The temple of Qaffol Shoshiy.
(Zarqaynar street 123) It is an archeological monument. One of the oldest and holiest places of Tashkent which is called Khastimom. Abu Bakr Muhammad ibn Ali ibn Ismoil al-Qaffol ash-Shoshiy was born in 904 in Shosh (Tashkent) was recognized in Tashkent in the areas to the north as a holy man and gained the title of Hazrati Imom. After he completed his education in Tashkent, he traveled through the muslim world becoming a student of prominent scientists teaching Islam. He had great knowledge of the Holy Qoran, Hadis and Shariat customs, and Arabic philology. When he returned back to his motherland he lived mostly in his native city of Tashkent teaching and promoting Islamic religion. Qaffol Shoshiy was the author of "Adab-ul-Qoziy" ("Judge's etiquette"- from Arabic), "Odob-ul-Bahs" ("Etiquette of Dispute"- from Arabic). According to what ibn Kholiqon wrote, it was Qaffol Shoshiy, who created "Husni adal" ("Development of Dialectics).
According to the Arabic historian and geographer Abu I Fido (1273-1 331) Qaffol Shoshiy was one of the prominent scientists of his time and there was no other scientist like him in the Turkistan country. For that reason people respected him as Hazrati Imom or Hastimom. Another important point is, that he came into the world in a family of ordinary craftsmen, he himself had the skill of lock making. "Qaffol" from Arabic means lock-maker. Qaffol Shoshiy died in 976 in Tashkent. The Holy Shrine, which Tashkent people used to call "Khastimom" associated with this honorable person is the short form of "Khazrati Imom". Around the tomb of that Holy person the famous and well-known people of Tashkent are in eternal sleep. The temple of Qaffol Shoshiy is one of the majestic examples of XV century architecture. According to some sources, the first temple had eventually become dilapidated and following an order of Tashkent's khan Navruz Ahmadkhon (Baroqkhon his pseudonym) a new temple had been built as a project of the palace architect Ghulom Husein.
Baroqkhon medresse
(Zarqaynar street 103) is an architectural monument. It cons ists of buildings built over several periods (XVI century). First in the eastern part of the building a pretty temple was built (the owner is unknown). Then in 1530 the temple of Tashkent's khan Suyunchkhujakhon (died in 1525), who was from the dynasty of Sheybanid's, was built. This temple now stands in the western side of medresse's court yard and is attached to the decoratively faced khonaqo.
The third phase of the medresse was built by Baroqkhon in the middle of XVI centuries. It included two of the temples which had been built previously. At present the Baroqkhon medresse is considered to be one of the most beautiful and charming monuments of Tashkent.
The real name of Baroqkhon is Navruz Ahmadkhon (born in 1556), the grandson of Khan Abulkhayrkhan from the Sheybanid's dynasty and the youngest son of Suyunchkujakhion, the Tashkent khan. After the death of his father in 1551, he governed Tashkent, later he became the governor of the whole area of Movarounnahr from 1551 1556. Movarounnahr (Arabic) territory was situated between the two rivers - Amudarya and Syrdarya. In his childhood Baroqkhon learned poetry and musical skills from Vosifiy (Persian-Turkish poet of XVIc). Most of his time was spent horse riding and in military training. After the death of Abdullatifkhan he sat on the throne of Samarqand and under the name of Navruz Ahmadshoh, ruled the whole of Movarounnahr. He was keen on town building works and by his decree, some medresses were built. As was mentioned in "Abdullanoma", the book by Hofiz Tanish Bukhoriy (Historian from Bukhara of XVIc) in 1556 Baroqkhon visited the improvement works of the Ravotkhuja dam (which started from the Zarafshon river valley) and suddenly died there (he was buried in Samarkand). During the rule of Baroqkhon between Near and Middle East countries trade and diplomatic relations were developed.
Namozgoh monument
(Zarqaynar street, 45) an architectural monument in the Khazrati Imam complex. Built in 1845/67. Namoz means prayer, as it was built especially for public prayer during Ramadan and on Qurban hayit holidays, it was known by that tradition. It was considered to be one of the biggest mosque buildings of Central Asia. Nowadays this building is occupied by the Imam Al-Bukhariy Tashkent Islamic Institute.
Tillashaykh jome (Cathedral) Mosque
Built in the year 1857 and is very well used at present, usually crowded with praying followers. They say, that it is even possible to see the generation of Tillashaykh (the supervisor of the building of this mosque) among the people graying.
Muyi Muborak mosque
Muyi muborak means a holy hair from the prophet. It is said that a hair from the head of the prophet Muhammad had been preserved in this mosque. Therefore it was given this name. Nowadays it is used as the main building for the library of the Muslim Board of Uzbekistan. The world famous, one of the 4 copies of Osman's Qoran is exhibited here. Built in 1856.
Zarqaynar
A mahalla in the Sebzor daha and the street connecting the Khazrati Imam Shrine with the center of Old city. Legends say that some Muslims had an audience with Qaffol Shoshiy and enjoyed his prayers. The prayers of the Khazrati Imam came true because they say that gold powder started appearing in the water furrows running through yards of those Muslims. As for some sources most of mahalla people were jewelers. Zar gold (Persian), qaynar boiling (Turkic).
Modern monuments of Tashkent
Tashkent is the industrial center of the republic. The 20% of the republican GNP is manufactured here, more than 300 big and medium enterprises are working.
From ancient times Tashkent was situated on the crossroads of trade and culture, nowadays it is considered to be the center of science and education. The Academy of Sciences of Uzbekistan and more than 30 science-research centers, Presidential Academy for State and Society Building, The Art Academy of Uzbekistan, The Academy of Armed Forces, 25 high institutes of higher education, 6 Universities and 23 institutes are functioning here. Besides the world famous theatres, there are also more than 20 museums, 4 concert halls, 4 grand cinema theatres, 13 mosques, 3 medresses, 13 temples, 8 churches.
Tashkent boasts with the highest building in Central Asia, it is a TV Tower and its highest peak is 375 meters.
At present Tashkent is the center of business and services, tourism and leisure. There are 25 banks and bank branches, 2 ventral posts, 7 air-booking offices, 2 railway terminals, 6 bus terminals, 12 supermarkets, 25 bazaars, 24 hotels, 15 sports centers, Botanic garden, zoo, Hippodrome, Tashkent land entertainment park. There are more than 200 embassies of foreign countries, international organizations and representatives.
Roads
Tashkent is situated on the crossroads of important railway and airways. There are 2 railway terminals in the city: The northern(main) and the southern. The city is the main "air gates" of the republic. Tashkent airport can receive different modern airplanes of foreign countries. Its passenger boarding capacity is 1000 passengers, in hot times 1 200 passengers. 24 international, 12 domestic and 23 CIS air itineraries are functioning.
Tashkent is covered with dense surface of public transport. There are 148 bus, 27 tramway 470 online taxies, there are 6 inter city bus stations. Since 1979 the only in Central Asia metro is functioning and it has 3 lines (Yunusobod, Chilonzor and Uzbekistan).
Tashkent Streets and Squares.
Khalqlar Dustligi (Peoples Friendship) prospect
Situated between the Peoples Friendship Square and the Main Uzbek Tract, southwest of Tashkent's center it is approximately 8 kilometers in length. The street is named in honor of the Soviet nations that helped to rebuild Tashkent after the 1966 earthquake. This prospect was built in two stages; the first stage from Muqimi street up to the Main Uzbek tract was built before 1966 and the section from Muqimi to the People's Friendship Square was completed after 1968. In XIX century the forerunner to the People's Friendship prospect was in the Beshyoghoch daha area and was considered to be  one of the main entrance roads to Tashkent. Now it connects Chilonzor - "The Tashkent Brooklyn" with the central part of the city. A part of the Metro passes through this prospect. The major part of this prospect is built in residential areas. Towards the center the prospect becomes more beautiful and takes an official flavour through the Gafur Gulom Cultural and rest garden and the newly built Azerbaijani embassy and the Uzbek Parliament give additional charm to this street.
Navoiy Avenue
Named in 1893 as Toshkucha (stone street) Sheykhantahur, until 1960 when it became Navoiy street, situated between Amir Temur and Beruniy streets, it is 3 kilometers in length. Crossed by the Anhor River. One of the ancient streets of Tashkent. On the second half of XX connected Old Ton with new town, crossed Sheykhantahur daha. The residents of this street were mostly craftsmen. It boasts the temple of Shekhantahur (XVc), Yunuskhon temple (XVIc) and Eshonqulidodkhoh medresse (XIX not preserved). The first Russian-local school was opened in Navoiy Street). In XX it was the most crowded street of the city. From 1903 the horse-drawntram and from1913, the electric tram were to be found in this street. Most reconstruction in this street was carried out in 60-70 years of XX. It was widened and the new transport network and multistoried buildings were built. In the 30's the building of the Agricultural Ministry and the Central Telegraph was completed. In the 40'sthe Trade and Cultural palace and in 1948 in the square in front of the palace, the monument to Alisher Navoiy and the poets alley, were created. In 1991 on the eve of Navoiy's 550th year anniversary, the palace building was turned into the. Literary museum. The following administrative and cultural offices are situated in this street: Publishing Houses, Health and Cultural Ministry, The Institute of Manuscripts, Architectural Institute, Alisher Navoiy Art palace, Kukaldosh medresse, Central Department Store, bookshops etc.
Amir Temur Boulevard
Before Independence this square had been known as Revolution Square. After the Russian occupation of Tashkent it became the Central Square of Konstantin (Named after Turkestan's first Tsarist General-governor Konstantin Kaufman). It gave the city a European image. The subsequently installed monuments on the square recognized the important changes in the former vast Soviet empire; Stalin in 1935, Karl Marx in 1958. In 1994 beautiful monument of Amir Temur on horse was installed.
Mustaqillik Maidoni - Square of Independence
Until 1917 the most important square of the country had been called Sobornaya (Cathedral) because the General-governor of Turkestan, Kaufman, had created an Orthodox church and bell tower near the first line of fountains. From 1917/66 it was known as Red Square and from 1966/91, like in many other Soviet capital cities, it took on Lenin's name. It is the central square of Tashkent, where most city parades and public ceremonies are held. It is situated between Uzbekistan and Navoiy prospects, on the bank of Anhor river and has been reconstructed several times. Two monuments to Lenin were erected here, the first in 1936 and the second in 1975. This second statue was the tallest in Central Asia (30 meters). In 1992 they were replaced by the giant globe with the prominent Uzbekistan map. Since 1992 this place has been called Independence Square, surrounded with the newly built Senate House in the west, the Cabinet of Ministers of Uzbekistan building in the south, Museum of History of Uzbekistan and memorial garden to the Unknown Soldier in the north. In former soviet times and even now this square is considered to be the largest square in CIS in terms of its majesty and scale.
Khalqlar Dustligi Maidoni - The Square of People's Friendship
This square is situated between Furqat, People's Friendship Street  and Uzbekistan Avenue in the southwest of city center and is named in honor of participants of Tashkent's People's Friendship Palace reconstruction after the 1966 earthquake. The Square replaced the 70 year old Guliston mahalla of the city. The Grand cinema-concert palace also named People's Friendship, opened in 1981 and became the basis of the unique architectural creations of the square. The monuments in front of the square are Friendship and to the family of Shomahmudov. Behind the palace one can see the architectural harmony of three periods; Abulkassim medresse from XIX of Kokand Khanete; the palace itself, built in soviet times according to it's monumental traditions; the "Navruz" (New day) restaurant; and the Celebration stadium, built during independence. To the north, the square neighbors with the National garden of Uzbekistan and with Alisher Navoiy's beautiful statue, built in 2001 on the occasion of his 660 year anniversary.
Navoiy Square
The square in front of the Navoiy Opera and Ballet Theatre, was called Voskresenskiy bazaar until 1930 and up to 1991, Theatrical square. In 1947 the construction of the Theatre was completed and a beautiful fountain was created by the group of architects and the attractive square appeared here. Now this square is surrounded by "Tashkent" Central Department Store on the south, on the west with "Tashkent Palace" hotel, and with "Sharq" Publishing house's bookshops on the east. It is a great pleasure for people to relax around the fountains here on hot sunny days.
Monuments
Monument dedicated to Tashkent's blacksmith Shomahmudov's family. The monument created by a group of sculptors and symbolizing the merciful family of Shomahmudov was installed in the People's Friendship square in 1982. In World War II, an ordinary blacksmith from Tashkent, Shahmad Shomahmudov (1890-1970) and his wife Bahri Shomahmudova (1903-87) adopted 14 orphans, evacuated from the Russian war fronts. Among them there were Russians, Belorussians, Moldavians, Ukrainians, Kazakhs, Tatars, Lithuanians and others. The example shown by this family to the war orphans later became the content of many books and films made in 60-70 of XX. They had been awarded with high honours and medals of the government
Monument of Courage
Tashkent is situated in an active seismic zone, the strongest earthquakes occurred here in 1866, 1868,1886,1924 and in 1966. The historian Muhammad Solihkhuja who lived in Tashkent in XIX had written in his "New History of Tashkent" about how the domes of Khoja Akhror cathedral mosque had collapsed after the earthquake of April 1866. But the earthquake in 26 April 1966 was the most damaging, as the epicenter of it was not deep and directed from the epicenter towards Southeast.
Reports quoted 8 persons dead, 300 thousand people rendered homeless and the destruction of many government, public buildings and schools. Under a decree of the government, urgent measures had been adopted for the restoration of Tashkent. During a 3.5 year period, with the help of the people from all parts of the former USSR, Tashkent had been reconstructed. A new satellite city named Sergeli appeared, 3200 sq.meters of living apartments were built. The monument staying behind the Turkestan concert hall depicts an Uzbek man protecting a woman and a child from the earth opening up before them.
Alisher Navoiy monument
The widely recognized 550 year an niversary of the founder of Uzbek classic literature of the XV, was celebrated in 1991 in Tashkent by the creation and unveiling of Alisher Navoiy's thoughtful statue placed under the dome in Tashkent's National garden of Uzbekistan near to Parliament. The inscription inside of the dome, quotes the wise verse of Navoiy saying Truthfulness is the essence of honorable people. Two things are seen within it. Firstly, be honest not only in words, but also in thoughts and deeds.
These words are still challenging people and newlyweds to come and put flowers at the statue to acknowledge good deeds. The very clean green zone and charming flowerbeds around the monument , beautifully compliment the surrounding garden and the "Navruz" summer concert stadium in the Beshyoghoch daha.
Source: Tashkentnama by Abdulaziz Muhammadkarimov
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